When shopping for solid wood furniture, the durability of the finish applied to the wood should be a major consideration. The most durable kind of finish used in the furniture industry today is a catalyzed varnish. If you want maximum moisture, chemical and scratch resistance, make sure you're buying a product with this type of finish. Ask for documentation (either in print or online) describing the manufacturer's finishing process. If the company uses a catalyzed varnish, they will almost always describe it in their literature or on their website, because it is such a great selling point.
Catalyzed varnishes are exponentially more durable than standard lacquers or varnishes because of the chemical bonding that occurs at the molecular level during their application and curing. This bond is initialized by adding an acid to the mixture of alkyd and amino resins (the chemicals which make up the varnish) which results in a cross-linking between the molecules that is both strong and flexible.
Most food products and many household chemicals cannot break this bond, thereby giving your wood excellent chemical resistance. The strength of this chemical bond also provides better UV resistance than standard varnishes, so the color of your wood will retain its original color longer. The "bend-but-don't break" nature of this bond also makes the catalyzed varnish more resistant to scratches and other kinds of mild impact.
The blend of toughness (hardness and flexibility) and chemical resistance make catalyzed varnishes ideal for kitchen cabinets and wood furniture.
Visit my company's website www.mydinette.com where you can learn more about furniture and shop our online showroom. We carry many products that have catalyzed varnishes.
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Pros and Cons of Table Top Surfaces, Lesson 2: Solid Wood
Solid Wood:
If you are shopping for a table that will get lots of use, or you simply like the idea of having a better quality piece of furniture in your home, a solid wood table top is a good option to consider. By no means is it indestructible, but it will perform markedly better than a wood veneer top. If you're shopping at a store that doesn't carry solid wood tables (only veneer), don't get fooled by the sales people into thinking solid wood is "exorbitantly expensive" or "not made anymore." I know people who were actually told these things by sales people! This is completely untrue. Solid wood tables are available in every price range, and there are many sizes, shapes, and finishes available.
TIP: If you can see “butcher blocks” of wood or long “planks” of wood stretching across the top, it’s probably SOLID wood. If you see decorative patterns inlaid in the top or no seams at all until you get to the edge of the top, it’s veneer. The exception to this rule is if the top is painted rather than stained – you may not be able to see the wood lines through the paint. In this case, look under the table for the planks or butcher blocks, or ask your sales person to be sure of its construction type.
TIP: If you can see “butcher blocks” of wood or long “planks” of wood stretching across the top, it’s probably SOLID wood. If you see decorative patterns inlaid in the top or no seams at all until you get to the edge of the top, it’s veneer. The exception to this rule is if the top is painted rather than stained – you may not be able to see the wood lines through the paint. In this case, look under the table for the planks or butcher blocks, or ask your sales person to be sure of its construction type.
PROS:
Solid wood tables are fairly durable for use in high-traffic areas, such as kitchens. Unlike wood veneer table tops, solid wood tops, as the name implies, are made up of solid blocks or planks of wood that form a single layer from the top of the table all the way through to the underside - no layers held together by glue. Therefore, if you were to scratch the top, there's more of the same wood underneath. Finer scratches can often be buffed out and polished by the homeowner, while deeper scratches and chips can usually be re-stained and repaired by a professional.
The main advantage of solid wood vs. veneer, however, is that moisture cannot cause lifting of any "layers" on your table, because there's only one solid piece. While moisture and chemicals can cause discoloration and/or swelling of your wood, such swelling usually subsides as the table is left to dry, and discoloration, if it doesn't dissipate on its own, can usually be repaired by the homeowner via repair cloths available at most hardware stores and some furniture stores. If you're looking for the most durable kind of solid wood table top, select a manufacturer who applies a catalyzed varnish to their furniture. (Better quality American and Canadian-made furniture will usually have such a finish.)
Under the finish, the durability of a solid wood table top is determined by the hardness of the species from which the table is made. The best standardized rating scale to determine the harness of a particular wood is called the Janka hardness test. Below is a list of some of the more common woods used in furniture (and elsewhere), and their corresponding Janka ratings:
Technical details aside, many, if not most people who own solid wood tables agree that minor dents and scratches add character to the piece. Each mark tells a story of the table's history. If you're not from this school of thought, you should either consider keeping a table pad and/or a table cloth on your top when it's being used or buy a different kind of table, such as high pressure laminate.
Solid wood tables are one of the most popular kinds of kitchen tables, so you will have plenty of style, color and size options, if you shop at the right stores. Solid wood tables are also available in every price range, from "cheap" to "exquisite," so you don't necessarily have to break the bank to get the advantages that solid wood provides. American and Canadian-made custom wood tables are usually available with a myriad of options, from size, shape and color to edge style, leg style and leaf options. Even ready-made Asian imports can, on occasion, come with options that let you make the table your own.
Solid wood tables are fairly durable for use in high-traffic areas, such as kitchens. Unlike wood veneer table tops, solid wood tops, as the name implies, are made up of solid blocks or planks of wood that form a single layer from the top of the table all the way through to the underside - no layers held together by glue. Therefore, if you were to scratch the top, there's more of the same wood underneath. Finer scratches can often be buffed out and polished by the homeowner, while deeper scratches and chips can usually be re-stained and repaired by a professional.
The main advantage of solid wood vs. veneer, however, is that moisture cannot cause lifting of any "layers" on your table, because there's only one solid piece. While moisture and chemicals can cause discoloration and/or swelling of your wood, such swelling usually subsides as the table is left to dry, and discoloration, if it doesn't dissipate on its own, can usually be repaired by the homeowner via repair cloths available at most hardware stores and some furniture stores. If you're looking for the most durable kind of solid wood table top, select a manufacturer who applies a catalyzed varnish to their furniture. (Better quality American and Canadian-made furniture will usually have such a finish.)
Under the finish, the durability of a solid wood table top is determined by the hardness of the species from which the table is made. The best standardized rating scale to determine the harness of a particular wood is called the Janka hardness test. Below is a list of some of the more common woods used in furniture (and elsewhere), and their corresponding Janka ratings:
| Wood Species | Availability | Most Commonly Used for | Janka Hardness (pounds-force) |
| Red Mahogany | extremely rare | "luxury" furniture and 19th century antiques | 2697 |
| Golden Teak | rare | outdoor furniture, Danish modern furniture | 2330 |
| Hickory | rare | American-made furniture (usually Amish) | 1820 |
| Hard Maple / Sugar Maple | fairly common | American-made furniture | 1450 |
| Natural Bamboo | fairly common | rattan furniture | 1380 |
| White Oak | fairly common | American-made furniture | 1360 |
| Ash (White) | fairly common | oak-look-alike furniture (often imported from Asia) | 1320 |
| Beech | common | restaurant furniture, European-made furniture | 1300 |
| Red Oak (Northern) | fairly common | American-made furniture (usually Amish) | 1290 |
| Yellow Birch | common | Canadian-made furniture | 1260 |
| North American Black Walnut | rare | American-made furniture (usually Amish) | 1010 |
| Hevea (Rubberwood) | very common | inexpensive furniture (always imorted from Asia) | 995 |
| Cherry | fairly common | American-made furniture | 995 |
| Southern Yellow Pine | somewhat rare | rustic furniture | 690 |
| Douglas Fir | common | construction lumber (2 x 4's etc) | 660 |
| Alder (Red) | somewhat rare | rustic furniture | 590 |
| Eastern White Pine | common | wood trim and paneling in the home | 380 |
Technical details aside, many, if not most people who own solid wood tables agree that minor dents and scratches add character to the piece. Each mark tells a story of the table's history. If you're not from this school of thought, you should either consider keeping a table pad and/or a table cloth on your top when it's being used or buy a different kind of table, such as high pressure laminate.
Solid wood tables are one of the most popular kinds of kitchen tables, so you will have plenty of style, color and size options, if you shop at the right stores. Solid wood tables are also available in every price range, from "cheap" to "exquisite," so you don't necessarily have to break the bank to get the advantages that solid wood provides. American and Canadian-made custom wood tables are usually available with a myriad of options, from size, shape and color to edge style, leg style and leaf options. Even ready-made Asian imports can, on occasion, come with options that let you make the table your own.
CONS:
Wood, by nature, is a POUROUS substance, so, as mentioned above, it will absorb moisture and react to heat and cold. (Keep in mind that wood exists in nature to transport moisture up and down a tree. IT DOES NOT EXIST TO BECOME A TABLE TOP!) Therefore, if you let something like spilled water sit on a wood top for an extended period of time (5 minutes - 4 hours, depending on how well the table is finished), the moisture can be absorbed by the wood, resulting in a stain (usually cloudy white) caused by the swelling of the wood under the varnish. As mentioned above, catalyzed varnishes significantly improve a table’s moisture and chemical resistance; however, it is NOT impervious and it will provide minimal to no protection against heat, cold, and extreme swings in humidity.
Significant cold exposure (i.e. an ice-cold glass of water) will cause the wood to contract, which can result in discoloration in mild cases and cracking of the finish, where it separates from the wood below, in extreme cases. In mild cases, the discoloration often dissipates as the wood returns to room temperature, but you should still avoid significant cold exposure whenever possible!
Significant heat exposure (i.e. a piping hot bowl of soup) will cause the wood to swell, which affects the wood in much the same way as cold exposure. In mild cases, the swelling will result in discoloration, and in extreme cases, the finish can crack as it expands and peels away from the wood below. In mild cases, the discoloration often dissipates as the wood returns to room temperature, but you should still avoid significant heat exposure whenever possible!
TIP: The common sense rule is that if an object is too hot or cold to hold comfortably in your hand, it is too hot or cold to be on the furniture. In other words, if the object "feels hot" or "feels cold" it's probably best to put some kind of protection between it and the table top.
Extreme swings in humidity can have the most dramatic effect on a solid wood table. Wood is always expanding and contracting, based on the relative humidity in your home. This is normal. Its ideal relative humidity is 25-35%, but if your home is more or less humid, don't fret. Your wood will usually adjust safely to the moisture level over time. The key is to prevent fast, sharp changes in your home's relative humidity. For instance, you shouldn't blast your forced air heater after returning to a house that has been unheated during a week of cold rainstorms. Quickly drying out your wood can cause it to contract to the point that it splits along the grain. (This is also known as season splitting or checking.) On the other hard, Extremely humid conditions can cause the wood to swell to the point that buckling (a.k.a. crowning) occurs.
TIP: Avoid placing your furniture next to forced air ducts and other heat/cold sources. When this is unavoidable, direct airflow away from the furniture as much as possible.
Wood, by nature, is a POUROUS substance, so, as mentioned above, it will absorb moisture and react to heat and cold. (Keep in mind that wood exists in nature to transport moisture up and down a tree. IT DOES NOT EXIST TO BECOME A TABLE TOP!) Therefore, if you let something like spilled water sit on a wood top for an extended period of time (5 minutes - 4 hours, depending on how well the table is finished), the moisture can be absorbed by the wood, resulting in a stain (usually cloudy white) caused by the swelling of the wood under the varnish. As mentioned above, catalyzed varnishes significantly improve a table’s moisture and chemical resistance; however, it is NOT impervious and it will provide minimal to no protection against heat, cold, and extreme swings in humidity.
Significant cold exposure (i.e. an ice-cold glass of water) will cause the wood to contract, which can result in discoloration in mild cases and cracking of the finish, where it separates from the wood below, in extreme cases. In mild cases, the discoloration often dissipates as the wood returns to room temperature, but you should still avoid significant cold exposure whenever possible!
Significant heat exposure (i.e. a piping hot bowl of soup) will cause the wood to swell, which affects the wood in much the same way as cold exposure. In mild cases, the swelling will result in discoloration, and in extreme cases, the finish can crack as it expands and peels away from the wood below. In mild cases, the discoloration often dissipates as the wood returns to room temperature, but you should still avoid significant heat exposure whenever possible!
TIP: The common sense rule is that if an object is too hot or cold to hold comfortably in your hand, it is too hot or cold to be on the furniture. In other words, if the object "feels hot" or "feels cold" it's probably best to put some kind of protection between it and the table top.
Extreme swings in humidity can have the most dramatic effect on a solid wood table. Wood is always expanding and contracting, based on the relative humidity in your home. This is normal. Its ideal relative humidity is 25-35%, but if your home is more or less humid, don't fret. Your wood will usually adjust safely to the moisture level over time. The key is to prevent fast, sharp changes in your home's relative humidity. For instance, you shouldn't blast your forced air heater after returning to a house that has been unheated during a week of cold rainstorms. Quickly drying out your wood can cause it to contract to the point that it splits along the grain. (This is also known as season splitting or checking.) On the other hard, Extremely humid conditions can cause the wood to swell to the point that buckling (a.k.a. crowning) occurs.
TIP: Avoid placing your furniture next to forced air ducts and other heat/cold sources. When this is unavoidable, direct airflow away from the furniture as much as possible.
SUMMARY: Solid wood table tops are one of the most popular kinds of tops for kitchen tables, so you should have plenty of options. Treat them with a reasonable amount of respect (i.e. use placemats, coasters, and/or table cloths; avoid exposing them to extreme swings in humidity), and they will serve you well for years and years.
If, however, you are looking for a practically "care-free" table surface, you may want to consider something like high-pressure laminate (i.e. Formica or Wilsonart) or solid surface (i.e. Corian or Granite). I’ll talk about those kinds of products in future blogs. Stay tuned, and thanks for reading!
Visit my company's website www.mydinette.com where you can learn more about furniture and shop our online showroom. We have an endless selection of solid wood tables.
If, however, you are looking for a practically "care-free" table surface, you may want to consider something like high-pressure laminate (i.e. Formica or Wilsonart) or solid surface (i.e. Corian or Granite). I’ll talk about those kinds of products in future blogs. Stay tuned, and thanks for reading!
Visit my company's website www.mydinette.com where you can learn more about furniture and shop our online showroom. We have an endless selection of solid wood tables.
Pros and Cons of Table Top Surfaces, Lesson 1: Wood Veneer
Wood Veneer:
Many (if not most) of the dining tables you will find in full-service and "big-box" furniture stores these days have wood veneer table tops. The reason for this is threefold: 1. Full service stores are usually trying to sell full dining rooms (as opposed to kitchen sets) where they expect you to use (and hope you will buy) a table pad, 2. Wood veneer tables usually cost less than solid wood (i.e. better price point), and 3. Wood veneer often looks “prettier” in the showroom.
PROS:
Wood veneers allow furniture manufacturers to create either decorative inlays or visually seamless surfaces on the table top. For this reason, wood veneer tops tend to be an attractive option for formal dining rooms and sleek, contemporary pieces, where appearance is the most important aspect of the table.
CONS:
Structurally, a wood veneer top is merely a thin sheet of wood which is glued to a substrate (usually particle board, unless it is a very high-end piece of furniture where solid planks or plywood is used). Wood, by nature, is a POUROUS substance, so it will allow moisture, heat and cold to pass through it. (Keep in mind that wood exists in nature to transport moisture up and down a tree. IT DOES NOT EXIST TO BECOME A TABLE TOP!) Therefore, if you let something like spilled water sit on a wood veneer top for an extended period of time (5 minutes - 1 hour, depending on the table), the moisture can pass right through the thin top layer to the glue beneath, at which point it can cause the glue to lose its adhesion properties. Next thing you know, you have a bubble in your table top. The same thing can happen to the glue when the table is subjected to moderate to high heat and cold. Unlike a solid wood table top, once a veneer top is damaged by heat, cold, or moisture, it is often impossible to fix (or the cost to fix may outweigh the cost of a new table!) Better quality manufacturers may apply a “catalyzed” varnish to the table, which significantly improves the top’s moisture and chemical resistance; however, this will do virtually nothing to protect the top from heat and cold.
Structurally, a wood veneer top is merely a thin sheet of wood which is glued to a substrate (usually particle board, unless it is a very high-end piece of furniture where solid planks or plywood is used). Wood, by nature, is a POUROUS substance, so it will allow moisture, heat and cold to pass through it. (Keep in mind that wood exists in nature to transport moisture up and down a tree. IT DOES NOT EXIST TO BECOME A TABLE TOP!) Therefore, if you let something like spilled water sit on a wood veneer top for an extended period of time (5 minutes - 1 hour, depending on the table), the moisture can pass right through the thin top layer to the glue beneath, at which point it can cause the glue to lose its adhesion properties. Next thing you know, you have a bubble in your table top. The same thing can happen to the glue when the table is subjected to moderate to high heat and cold. Unlike a solid wood table top, once a veneer top is damaged by heat, cold, or moisture, it is often impossible to fix (or the cost to fix may outweigh the cost of a new table!) Better quality manufacturers may apply a “catalyzed” varnish to the table, which significantly improves the top’s moisture and chemical resistance; however, this will do virtually nothing to protect the top from heat and cold.
SUMMARY: If you plan on using a table pad and/or protective table cloth, or if you take exceptional care of your furniture, a wood veneer table top will be an attractive and functional surface for you to own. If, however, you do NOT like the idea of having to protect your top from everyday wear-and-tear, do NOT buy a table with a wood veneer top. I can’t stress this enough; you will be very disappointed in its durability. If you fall into this second category, make sure you ask your furniture sales person if the table you’re considering is made of solid wood or wood veneer. Solid wood is not indestructible (I’ll talk about that in another post), but it is exponentially more durable than a veneer surface.
TIP: If you can see “butcher blocks” of wood or long “planks” of wood stretching across the top, it’s probably SOLID wood. If you see decorative patterns inlaid in the top or no seams at all until you get to the edge of the top, it’s veneer. The exception to this rule is if the top is painted rather than stained – you may not be able to see the wood lines through the paint. In this case, look under the table for the planks or butcher blocks, or ask your sales person to be sure of its construction type.
If you really want a care-free table surface, you may want to consider something other than a wood-based top altogether, such as high-pressure laminate (i.e. Formica or Wilsonart) or solid surface (i.e. Corian or Granite). I’ll talk about those kinds of products in future blogs. Stay tuned, and thanks for reading!
Visit my company's website www.mydinette.com where you can learn more about furniture and shop our online showroom.
Visit my company's website www.mydinette.com where you can learn more about furniture and shop our online showroom.
Unbiased Furniture Lessons from a Pro
The purpose of this blog is to educate people about furniture in a non-biased, fact based way. I have found, through my career, that most people's furniture knowledge comes from furniture store sales people. That's like learning about the health benefits of fast food from a McDonald's executive. As you can probably guess, there are many furniture sales people who can't even tell the difference between solid wood and veneer. My goal is to make readers of this blog more knowledgeable than the sales people they're buying from. While I am an owner of a custom furniture store (don't hate me - I'm an honest guy, I promise!), I will not be trying to steer you toward any products in particular. You will find my blogs to contain both pros and cons for all of the materials, product types, countries of origin, etc. discussed. Unlike some of the "characters" you may find in a furniture store, I am passionate about the products I build and sell. This is my life, so I have made it my business to immerse myself in ALL of the processes and materials that go into our furniture. My partners, who have almost 20 years of experience in the business, were instrumental in starting the education process, but, like anything, nothing beats experience. Much of my knowledge comes from lessons learned the hard way during my last 10 years in the business. Mistakes I have made, and mistakes I have seen others make have taught me volumes about what to expect from different types of furniture. So... if you're interested in learning more about furniture, stay tuned!
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